People expect cashmere to be difficult. The first time someone holds one of our 95/5 organic cotton and cashmere cardigans, they ask the same question: "am I going to ruin this in the wash??
The honest answer is: probably not, if you read the next thousand words. We designed this fabric to live a real life — to be worn three or four times a week, smeared with porridge, dropped in puddles, and machine-washed at the end of it. The 95% organic cotton is the resilient half of the blend. The 5% cashmere asks for a small amount of attention. With both in mind, here's everything you need to know.
This guide covers:
- A quick reference card (screenshot it for your laundry room)
- How to machine-wash our 95/5 blend
- How to hand-wash, when you want to
- How to dry — and the one mistake that ruins everything
- How to remove pilling (and why it isn't a flaw)
- How to remove the most common kid stains
- How to store between sizes
- An FAQ section
Quick reference card
| Wash | Cold (30°C or below), gentle/wool cycle |
| Bag | Mesh laundry bag, garment turned inside out |
| Detergent | Liquid, non-bio, gentle (a wool/cashmere wash works well) |
| Spin | Low spin (400–800 rpm) |
| Dry | Lay flat, reshape gently — never tumble, never on a radiator |
| Iron | Cool iron if needed, on the reverse side, with a cloth |
| Store | Folded (never on a hanger), in a breathable cotton bag |
| Pill | Remove with a cashmere comb, never a razor |
That's the whole process. The rest of this guide is detail and reasoning for the times you want to know *why*.
How to machine-wash our 95/5 organic cotton & cashmere
The 95/5 blend is machine-washable. We've engineered it for that. Here's the cycle that gives the best results.
1. Turn the garment inside out. This protects the right side from the abrasion that causes pilling.
2. Place it in a mesh laundry bag. A mesh bag is the single biggest piece of equipment in cashmere care. It stops the garment from being agitated against zips, buttons, and rough cottons in the same load.
3. Wash on a cold cycle — 30°C or below. A "wool" or "delicate" cycle is ideal. The principle is short, gentle agitation in cool water.
4. Use a non-bio liquid detergent. Bio detergents contain enzymes that attack protein fibres — and the cashmere component of the blend is a protein fibre. A wool or cashmere wash is the gentlest option. A non-bio liquid detergent for delicates works equally well.
5. Skip the fabric softener. Modern softeners coat fibres with a film that reduces breathability and, ironically, makes the cloth feel less soft over time.
6. Use a low spin. Anything between 400 and 800 rpm. A high spin twists fibres around each other and accelerates pilling.
That's it. No special programme, no drycleaner, no anxiety.
How to hand-wash
You don't have to. But many parents find hand-washing one or two pieces a meditative weekend ritual, and it does extend the life of a piece marginally.
1. Fill a basin with cool water (cold tap, no hotter).
2. Add a teaspoon of wool/cashmere wash and stir.
3. Submerge the garment fully, press it gently under the water, and leave to soak for 5–10 minutes. *Don't agitate, twist, or scrub.*
4. Press the soapy water out of the garment — never wring.
5. Refill the basin with cool clear water and rinse by gentle pressing. Repeat once.
6. Press out as much water as possible — a clean towel rolled around the garment is a good way to absorb the rest.
7. Move on to drying (below).
How to dry — and the one thing not to do
Lay flat to dry. On a clean, dry towel, on a flat surface, away from direct heat. Reshape it gently while it's still damp — pat the cuffs into shape, the collar flat, the body even.
The thing not to do: hang it on a hanger to dry. The combined weight of damp organic cotton and cashmere will stretch the shoulders and elongate the body. Once that happens, the silhouette doesn't fully recover.
Also: don't tumble dry, don't put it on a radiator, and don't leave it in direct sunlight. Heat is what shrinks knits, and uneven heat (one half on the radiator, the other half off) is what creates the tell-tale stretched shape that makes second-hand cashmere recognisable.
How to remove pilling — and why it happens
Pilling is normal. It's friction, not a sign of poor quality. Even the finest cashmere in the world pills in the first few wears, particularly under the arms, on the inside of the sleeves, and where a backpack rubs.
Once the loose fibres on the surface are combed away, the cloth settles down. Pilling reduces dramatically after the third or fourth wash.
To remove pills:
- Use a cashmere comb. It looks like a small wooden block with fine teeth. You sweep it across the fabric and it lifts the pills away. They're cheap (£10–£15) and last a decade.
- Don't use a razor. Razors cut the pills off but they also shave the surface fibres of the garment, thinning the cloth.
Comb a cardigan once when you receive it (some pilling happens in transit), once after the first wash, and then every few months. After the cloth has settled, you'll find you barely need to.
How to handle the common kid stains
Milk, formula. Rinse with cool water immediately if possible. Don't use hot water — it sets the protein. Then wash as normal.
Food (purée, sauce, jam). Scrape the solids off gently, dab with cool water, and treat with a small amount of cashmere wash directly on the stain. Leave for ten minutes, then wash.
Mud. Let it dry first. Then brush off as much as possible with a soft brush. Then wash.
Paint, ink, blood. Cold water, immediately. Cashmere wash with a soft toothbrush. Don't soak in hot water at any stage.
Grass. A teaspoon of white vinegar in cool water, soaked for 30 minutes, then washed. Avoid bleach completely.
Pen. Dab — don't rub — with rubbing alcohol (isopropyl) on a cotton bud, then wash. Test on an inside seam first.
The principle for all stains: cool water, gentle cleaner, no rubbing, treat early. The 95/5 blend is forgiving, but heat sets stains and rubbing wears the surface.
How to store between sizes
This is the part that most influences whether a piece will look like new on the next child.
- Wash and fully dry the garment before storing. Stored damp = mildew. Stored with a stain = a permanent mark.
- Fold, don't hang. Knits stretch on hangers in storage just as they do when wet.
- Use a breathable cotton bag, not a plastic vacuum bag. Plastic traps moisture and prevents the fibre from breathing.
- Add a moth deterrent. Cedar blocks or lavender sachets work; we don't recommend mothballs near children's clothes. Refresh the cedar every six months.
- Keep it cool, dry, and out of direct sun. A drawer is fine. The bottom of the wardrobe is fine. The loft, if it's not damp, is fine.
- Don't iron before storing. Ironing can flatten the soft pile and remove the lift cashmere is known for.
When you take the piece out for the next child, give it a fresh cool wash — both for hygiene and to refresh the hand of the cloth.
When something goes wrong
A snag. Don't pull the loose thread. Gently work it back into the fabric using the eye of a darning needle. The 95/5 blend is forgiving — most snags vanish into the cloth.
A small moth hole. Possible to repair invisibly with darning if it's caught early. Larger holes may need a specialist. We can sometimes help — get in touch.
The piece feels stiff after washing. It's usually detergent residue. Re-rinse in cool water, no detergent, and dry as normal.
It came out smaller than it went in. It probably stretched in wear and has now returned to its true size. If it's truly shrunk (a hot wash, accidentally), block it back to size while damp — pin to a towel in the right shape and let dry. Most of the size returns.
Frequently asked questions
Can I really machine-wash MIKA & MILO?
Yes — the 95/5 blend is engineered to be machine-washable on a cool, gentle cycle. Hand-washing isn't required but is gentler if you have time.
What's the best detergent?
A non-bio liquid detergent or a dedicated wool/cashmere wash. Avoid biological detergents (their enzymes attack the protein fibres in cashmere) and avoid fabric softener.
Can I tumble dry it?
No. Tumble drying shrinks knits and flattens the cashmere surface. Always lay flat to dry.
Why does my cardigan pill?
Pilling is normal friction-shedding of loose surface fibres. It's not a quality defect. A cashmere comb removes pills cleanly; pilling reduces dramatically after the first few washes.
How often should I wash it?
Less often than you think. Cashmere is naturally odour-resistant. Spot-clean visible marks; full wash every 3–5 wears for normal use, more often only if visibly soiled.
Will it shrink?
Not if washed cool. The blend's pre-treated yarn is shrink-resistant within the recommended care parameters. A hot wash will shrink it; a 30°C cycle won't.
How do I store it between sizes?
Washed, dried, folded in a breathable cotton bag with a cedar block or lavender sachet, somewhere cool and dry.
What to do next
Bookmark this page for the first time you stare at the washing machine wondering what cycle to choose. Then browse our kids' collection
Shop kids' organic cotton & cashmere
